It’s pre-dawn within the historic Podil district of the Ukraine capital, Kyiv, and heat gentle from the Spelta bakery-bistro’s window pierces the darkness outdoors. On a picket floor dusted with flour, the baker Oleksandr Kutsenko skilfully divides and shapes smooth, damp items of dough. As he shoves the primary loaves into the oven, a candy, delicate aroma of recent bread fills the area.
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